From a week of incredible sights in northwest Australia's Kimberley Peninsula many years ago, I find that one of my most enduring memories is going on the aft deck of a mothership anchored in a remote river mouth and seeing a croc or two or maybe none around dinnertime. But just as soon as darkness fell and the boat lights came on, suddenly there would be many pairs of bright-red eyes like so many glowing coals, just above the surface, slowly circling the boat. "If you get up at night to take of any business, mate," one of the crew said, "do not go back on that fantail. It's too close to the water." I took his advice to heart.