So just about the time I see coming over the horizon the top of the big red sun, to use Lucinda Williams' phrase, I notice something big and dark ahead. As I draw closer, I realize it’s variously the bodies, heads and huge flat tails of manatees in only three or four feet of water. Looks like a pair. I blush when I realize what they’re doing but the voyeur in me has to look. After all, there's not much else to look at, especially since the murky water and low light make it impossible to see much ahead.